Patterns are available Here
The first part of this ensemble started with the Corset
Two months have passed since then, and finally I have some materials to show to you.
Once the corset was done I moved on with the skirt, which was longer than I expected to be. It took me more or less one month, this ‘cos the embellishment was the longest part to complete.
As I was constantly inspired by the Bompianti’s paiting (you can find it on the previous post) I wanted to reproduce something similar. Obviously, as my color patelle was warm, I had to choose an ivory satin fabric and an ivory tulle, which matches well with the main fabric (a red shantung silk)
The pattern I used was a simple rounded skirt.
I traced and cut the pattern onto half fabric. I repeat this step two times. At the end I also did some basting stitches along seamlines since I had to have guidelines on both sides.
Before I could proceed I had to finish each seam allowance. Since I didn’t use a lining, I finished them with bias tape, which was done with the same fabric of the skirt.
I sewed it, folded it on the wrong side of the fabric
Then I sewed it down with some invisible stitches. This is a technique I learned thanks to Couture Sewing Techniques (affiliate)
As regards the closure, I added an invisible zipper
Once done, I also had to add a waistband. I pinned it and sewed it down
Then I folded it and I sewed it with invisible stitches. Obviously I had to be careful to not catch too much fabric on the right side. I also added some hooks & eyes
As regard the hem, I sewed it by hand. It was more or less 9 meters long, and this took me a while. I should have done it with my sewing machine, but I hate too much visible stitches, moreover on hems. I folded twice the fabric and I sewed it down with invisibile stitches. Once done I also pressed it.
My first skirt was done. I had to do the second skirt, which was made with tulle.
I sewed two layers of tulle of 3 meter each together, then I gathered them in order to shorten the length, which had to be the same of my waist
Then I had to close the skirt. I leave a small gap of 20 cm and I closed the skirt where my red pin was. I didn’t finished the seam allowance, ‘cos tulle doesn’t fray
Before I could proceed I also added a waistband and hooks and eyes again.
Then I started working on the upperskirt. I did a mock up with muslim, which took me several hours. I tried to follow some historical patterns but it didn’t work very well.
As you can see I also have done a previous overskirt wich was indeed too much short.
Once my pattern was ready I traced and cut it onto crinoline fabric.
I used crinoline since shantung was too much light and my fear was that it couldn’t support a heavy embellishment as the one I did.
I basted it onto the shantung fabric, and I did the same for the back panel.
Before I could proceed with the embellishment I sewed the two layers of fabric together and I sergered them all around.
Once done I could start the embellishment. I used an organza ribbon for the base. I gathered it
And I placed it onto front and back panels
I basted and sewed it down. Then the funniest part: flowers! I used some fake flowers that a friend of mine gave me. There are three different colors as you can see. They also had a long stem, which I cut out. I also had to put some glue on them since they were extremely fragile
Then I sewed them on the two panels. This took me a while, since I had to sew each flower three times to secure it
Once panels were completed, I joined them. I pinned them until I could, since flowers made some volume, which was impossibile to machine sew
Infact I had to hand sew the last part of them as you can see. I did it with backstitches
And before I could add the lining I also folded the hem and I did some whipstitches to keep it in place. I was careful to only catch the crinoline
I also added hooks & eyes for the closure
As regards the lining, once I sergered it, I joined it on one side, leaving the gap for the closure on the other side
I applied it to the hem with invisible stitches
Since I wanted some volume on the back, I made it larger than my waist. So I had to shorten it with folds. The original idea was gathering it, but the crinoline make the fabric too much stiff
I sewed the back and at the end I added a proper waistband. I used some interfacing on it, since shantung was too much light to maintain a good shape
I folded it on the wrong side of the fabric, and I closed it with invisible stitches.
And here you can see the front
And the back
That’s all for this post.
I really hope you enjoied it!