Autumn Breeze – Part II

Patterns are available Here

 


Hi everyone!
The first part of this ensemble started with the Corset
Two months have passed since then, and finally I have some materials to show to you.

Once the corset was done I moved on with the skirt, which was longer than I expected to be. It took me more or less one month, this ‘cos the embellishment was the longest part to complete.

As I was constantly inspired by the Bompianti’s paiting (you can find it on the previous post) I wanted to reproduce something similar. Obviously, as my color patelle was warm, I had to choose an ivory satin fabric and an ivory tulle, which matches well with the main fabric (a red shantung silk)

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The pattern I used was a simple rounded skirt.
I traced and cut the pattern onto half fabric. I repeat this step two times. At the end I also did some basting stitches along seamlines since I had to have guidelines on both sides.

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Before I could proceed I had to finish each seam allowance. Since I didn’t use a lining, I finished them with bias tape, which was done with the same fabric of the skirt.

I sewed it, folded it on the wrong side of the fabric

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Then I sewed it down with some invisible stitches. This is a technique I learned thanks to Couture Sewing Techniques (affiliate)

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As regards the closure, I added an invisible zipper

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Once done, I also had to add a waistband. I pinned it and sewed it down

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Then I folded it and I sewed it with invisible stitches. Obviously I had to be careful to not catch too much fabric on the right side. I also added some hooks & eyes

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As regard the hem, I sewed it by hand. It was more or less 9 meters long, and this took me a while. I should have done it with my sewing machine, but I hate too much visible stitches, moreover on hems. I folded twice the fabric and I sewed it down with invisibile stitches. Once done I also pressed it.

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My first skirt was done. I had to do the second skirt, which was made with tulle.
I sewed two layers of tulle of 3 meter each together, then I gathered them in order to shorten the length, which had to be the same of my waist

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Then I had to close the skirt. I leave a small gap of 20 cm and I closed the skirt where my red pin was. I didn’t finished the seam allowance, ‘cos tulle doesn’t fray

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Before I could proceed I also added a waistband and hooks and eyes again.
Then I started working on the upperskirt. I did a mock up with muslim, which took me several hours. I tried to follow some historical patterns but it didn’t work very well.

As you can see I also have done a previous overskirt wich was indeed too much short.

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Once my pattern was ready I traced and cut it onto crinoline fabric.
I used crinoline since shantung was too much light and my fear was that it couldn’t support a heavy embellishment as the one I did.

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I basted it onto the shantung fabric, and I did the same for the back panel.

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Before I could proceed with the embellishment I sewed the two layers of fabric together and I sergered them all around.

Once done I could start the embellishment. I used an organza ribbon for the base. I gathered it

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And I placed it onto front and back panels

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I basted and sewed it down. Then the funniest part: flowers! I used some fake flowers that a friend of mine gave me. There are three different colors as you can see. They also had a long stem, which I cut out. I also had to put some glue on them since they were extremely fragile

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Then I sewed them on the two panels. This took me a while, since I had to sew each flower three times to secure it

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Once panels were completed, I joined them. I pinned them until I could, since flowers made some volume, which was impossibile to machine sew

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Infact I had to hand sew the last part of them as you can see. I did it with backstitches

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And before I could add the lining I also folded the hem and I did some whipstitches to keep it in place. I was careful to only catch the crinoline

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I also added hooks & eyes for the closure

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As regards the lining, once I sergered it, I joined it on one side, leaving the gap for the closure on the other side

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I applied it to the hem with invisible stitches

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Since I wanted some volume on the back, I made it larger than my waist. So I had to shorten it with folds. The original idea was gathering it, but the crinoline make the fabric too much stiff

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I sewed the back and at the end I added a proper waistband. I used some interfacing on it, since shantung was too much light to maintain a good shape

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I folded it on the wrong side of the fabric, and I closed it with invisible stitches.

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And here you can see the front

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And the back

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That’s all for this post.
I really hope you enjoied it!

Firma

Lady Ween – The last Harvest | Part II

If you’re looking for patterns, please check my Patreon page to have them!


Hi guys,
this is the second part of the Lady Ween outfit I’ve done for Halloween.
I hope you read the first part, which is about the skirt.

Let’s start!
For the upper part of this outfit I was inspired by huge sleeves that were popular at the end of XIX century. I was able to find a very small pattern scheme into my Patterns of Fashion II (affiliate) which is about the so called Gigot sleeves.

It was hard to figure out how it should have worked, ‘cos it was just a drawing with no explanations at all. Plus I think it was reflected and so I was barely able to understand it. But after many tries I came up with something.
And this is the mock up

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As regard fabrics I was able to find a very good taffettà in a nearby shop. I think they sold me a silk taffettà but I’m not sure.
Then I also added a red cotton, whereas the lining was made with the same fabric as well. I didn’t use the black cotton at the end, ‘cos it darken the orange taffettà too much..

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Once my patterns were ready I traced and cut the taffettà. I also added a layer of light interfacing, since the taffettà was too thin for a jacket.

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And then I joined the panels together

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In order to flatten my seams I opened the seam allowances, I press them and I stitched them down with catchstitches.

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Time for giant sleeves!
The orange one is the Gigot sleeve. So, it’s 90cm x 60 cm. The red one is the under sleeve which is also a part of the lining

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I joined the sleeve and I did gathering stitches on the armohole.
Then I ruffled it

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Before I could add the sleeve to the bodice I also press the seams

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Once done I also basted the end in order to maintain a good shape while I was joining the two different sleeves.

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I joined the two sleeves with invisible stitches. I also left a small gap at the end, and I added a hook & eye on it

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Sleeves were not completed! I had to add some volume. I cut some strips of stiffen tulle

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And I sewed it all around the armohole. This is the final result. Well..on the mannequin they looks like rubbish, but on me they fit very well!

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Once sleeves were done I had to the front part of the bodice. So I cut a 60 cm of red cotton

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And I gathered it. I made two pieces as you can see

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I  traced on them the pattern for the missing part of the front bodice. I traced it with basting stitches

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But before I could add the red parts, I had to sew down the remaining part of the orange bodice

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Once done I simply added the red cotton under the orange bodice as you can see. I pinned it and I sewed it with invisible stitches

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Then I had to do the neck. I repeated the same process I used for the gathered front. I took a small piece of cotton, I gathered it and I applied it on the neckline lining

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Once my neck was sewed I started adding the black lace I bought.
I’m sorry I took few photos of these last steps, but I was in hurry to finish this dress in time for Halloween.

Once I applied the lace with backstitches I also added some black beads on it.

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Then I added the lining and hooks & eyes for the closure

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And finally my outfit was ready!

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That’s all for this post!
Thank you very much, hope you appreciated it!

Lady Ween – The last harvest | Part I

Hi guys!

As you may know Autumn is my favourite season. I love everything of it! Colors, weather, sunlight, its perfume…and Halloween!

Here in Italy we don’t celebrate it too much, sadly. It’s a pity ‘cos I think that Halloween is also a way to celebrate the last harvest of the year before winter comes…plus pumpinks are so beautiful! I always do lots of researches on pinterest during this month, since I love to see what are the best Halloween themed houses that Americans have!
You..so lucky!

My way to celebrate it this year was to create an outfit I surely would wear for a party or a themed ball! I didn’t have a clear inspiration until I though to do something late victorian.

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As always I want you to know that this is not a historical reprodution.
It’s just a fantasy outfit inspired by historical fashion.
So, first of all I started with patterns that I modified from Patterns of Fashion 2 (affiliate).
I altered this skirt since I didn’t want that gathering thing on the back. Instead I opted for less volume as possible ‘cos my idea was to add some details on it!

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Once patterns were done I started cutting the fabric. I chose a black satin fabric and a black tulle.

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Then I traced and cut my fabric. In the end I had 2 panels for front and back, and 4 panels on the sides

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I should have added a lining to this skirt. It would have speeded up the entire process of making it, but I didn’t have enough time to go to Milan and buy some…So I had the brilliant idea to cover my seam allowances with bias tape.
Indeed it was not a good idea, ‘cos it took me too much time!

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Once my bias tape was ready (I cut the fabric at 45° and I pressed it) I pinned it on my seam allowances. I repeat this process for each seam allowance I had and then I sewed it down with my sewing machine

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Then I folded it and I finished it with some invisible stitches.
The next step was to join panels! So I pinned and sewed them

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Once I joined the pieces this was the final result with seam allowances. So, even if the inside has no lining, it’s neat anyway. Sometimes I love this technique too much and I’d use it everywhere and every time I can!

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As regards the closure I added an invisible zipper on one side. Obviously, first I sewed the zipper and just then I closed the missing part of the panel.

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My satin skirt was ready and I started doing the tulle overskirt.
The tulle overskirt had to be doubled so I had to made 16 pieces in total (patterns were the same of the previous skirt).
In order to speed up the process I made some stitches on two layers of organza before cutting them, ‘cos I needed some guidelines for both pieces.
But once I divided the two layers my stitches didn’t stay in place so I had no more guidelines…

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At the end I had to redo the same process again.
This time I basted each panel separately and I pinned them where I had to joined them.

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I sewed the panels following the basting stiches

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And once donce I also refined the seam allowances. I want you to know that I made the two layers of tulle skirt in this way (so at the end I had two identical overskirts).

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I know you’re wondering why I made two identical overskirts, but you’ll see.
Since I wanted to do something spooky I had the idea to use the same embellishment technique I used for my Autumn skirt.
So I bough a black wool yarn like this one (it’s very thick as you can see)

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And I added some of it on my first overskirt. I pinned it randomly since I did lots of researches on Pinterest to understand how branches looks like.

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Once I was satisfied I had to secure each wool yarn piece on the overskirt. I did this with some whipstitches. It took me a while but I was satisfied at the end

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Before I could add the second overskirt, I had to finish the satin skirt.
I pressed the hem down and did some invisible stitches

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Then I could add the second layer of my tulle overskirt onto the embellished once. After basting and sewing it, I also sergered it

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The last thing I had to do was to join the completed overskirt on the satin skirt.
I did this applying the overskirt first on the skirt closure, where the zipper is sewed. I folded down the sergered part of the tulle overskirt and I pinned it as near as possible to the invisible zipper. Once done I sewed the tulle down with invisible stitches catching the satin fabric too

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Once I completed this step I added a waistband. I sewed it right side and I folded it on the wrong side of the fabric

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And I finished it with invisible stitches

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Finally you can see how the skirt looks like! Still missing the upper part but I love it so much! I think that the silhouette could be better, but as a first attempt I think it’s good enough!

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Thank you very much for reading this.
I’ll soon post the second part of this ensemble.
Hope you liked it as I did during its construction!


If you’re looking for deeper explanation, please see my Patreon page to have the ebook!

Thank you very much!

Autumn Breeze – Part I

Hi everyone!
The summer is over and Autumn is here! As you may know this is my favourite season and I’m so excited to see again its colors on nature!

Apart from this, I’m doing a huge project that will cover the whole month, since it requires lots of handstiching and machine sewing.
This project is about Autumn (yes, again!).

In July I sketched a ballgown inspired by the Bompianti’s Mrs Butterfield in blue dress painting. I had some fabric flowers and a faboulous red shantung waiting for inspiration, and I immediately had it watching this!

Bompiani, Roberto, 1821-1908; Mrs Butterfield (1838-1867)

Obviously I had to start with the undergarments pieces.  I would have done a matching petticoat and a crinoline but they were out of my budget, so I started with the corset.

A bunch of months ago I bought Stays and Corset: Historical Patterns Translated for a Modern Body (affiliate) It’s a fantastic book that explains very well how to do patterns for historical corsets and stays. The one I used is the 1860 corset.

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Since I didn’t like the contrast between red and black, my first decision was to use some different colors that would match well my whole ensemble.
Fabrics I used are: salmon cotton, red cotton, white cotton (as lining) and a very stiff cotton, which is similar to coutil but it’s not. Don’t know why but Milan hates coutil (seems like nobody sells it…). I opted for plastic bones (0,6mm and 1,2cm) and a red lace, which is beautiful!

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Patterns took me a while (10 hours I think…seriously). This book is extremely precise, and gives precise instructions. It’s worth it, I swear. I have already done another historical patter for a costumer, which was a 18th stay and it turned out stunning and comfy, which is a mandatory for these kind of undergarments ahah!

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Once my patterns were completed, I traced and cut the coutil layers two times, so 10 pieces and 10 pieces. I’ve done this ‘cos plastic bones tend to tear the fabric if they don’t have a smooth end or if they don’t have end caps like mine (which I didn’t have ‘cos I don’t like them!). I also traced boning channels on one layer.

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Then I traced the patterns on the outer fabrics too! I decided to make the red the main color for the corset since I wasn’t able to find a salmon trim. Also the dress will be mostly red so I think it’s a perfect matching!

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Once done I basted each panel and I started tracing the boning channels with a red thread. I use a very thick needle (n. 100) and a tension between 5.5 and 6.
It took me a while! I repeated the process for each panel before I could sew them together

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These are my panels for the back. I had to sew the panels in this way: before I joined 5, 4, 3 together. Then I did the same with panel 1 and 2. And just then I joined the front and the back panels. I did this ‘cos it was much more easier to sew them with the sewing machine. I couldn’t have done it in another way!
As said the fabric I used made the corset stiff even without bones!

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Here you can see how my panels are divided (5-4-3: the back | 1-2: the front).
I also used my serger to finish the seams, which is an important step as you’ll see!

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This is how it looks! I think it’s stunning! But it’s not finished yet

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The next step was adding lots of plastic bones!
I used rigilene bones in two dimensions: 6mm and 1,2 cm.
I chose them ‘cos they’re not destroyed by a small flame, whereas the others do (the ones that can’t be sewed..I don’t know if they have another name).

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I traced and cut some plastic bones starting with panels 5.
Each one was cut more or less -1/1.5 cm from its channel length.
This prevent fabric ripping!

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Once I had enough plastic bones, I burned angles making them smoother, after that I pressed them with steam, in order to have them flat. Normally, I would have inserted them even if they weren’t flat, pressing the corset right after. But I think this process doesn’t work well. I surely prefer to press bones before!

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I inserted each bones on the right place and I repeated the same process until my corset was fully boned! It took me a while and I also had to buy more meters of 6mm rigilene!

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This is how my corset looked like once I finished with plastic bones.

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As you can see I also added 2 larger plastic bones on the center.
I used the same process for the 6mm rigilene bones (trace, cut, burn angles and insert them).
If you’re following this making of for your own corset, please wait before adding the 2 larger plastic bones on the back!

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Once I finished with plastic bones I had to make the corset neat, ‘cos it was a mess!
I opened my seamlines making them flat with some pins, and I sewed them in place with a whipstitch. I used a strong white thread. It was almost impossible to catch the right of the fabric, but I was careful anyway.

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Then I started with lining! I chose a white cotton that I had in my stash for so long. I traced and cut the panels as I did before

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And I joned the pieces together. I also use my serger to finish the seams!

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Once lining and corset were aligned right side to right side, I joined them sewing the last boning channels, the back ones

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And I inserted the two larger plastic bones, finally!

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This is how the inside looks now. I also have basted and sewed the upper and lower part of the corset, in order to have some guidelines for the next step. I also have refined the seamlines

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My corset needed a bias tape, that I made using the same red cotton I used for the panels.

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I don’t like sewing the inner part of a bias tape with my sewing machine, since I really hate visible stitches! So what I did was finishing it with some invisible stitches. I made this for the upper part too. It didn’t took me so much time, so I suggest you this technique if you wanna try it!

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I added some eyelets on the back (sadly Prym has just 3 colors…)

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And the last step was to add the super cute red lace I’ve bought for it!

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And this is how it looks worn. It’s confortable and very tight.
It took me more or less 30 hours of work (patterns were time consuming) and 15 meters of 6mm riginele. I surely will do another version, a corded 1860 corset!

I want to show to you a small collage of the corset on the mannequin! It’s larger than me so it’s not realistic, but here you can see some details better!

Here my post finishes! I hope you liked it.
If you’re looking for deeper explanation, please see my Patreon page to have the ebook!

Thank you very much!

Pineapple Dress – A summer break

Hi everyone!

Since summer has come and here in Italy it’s 40° (104 F) each day, I took a break from huge costumes and cosplay. But nothing can stop me from sewing things, and I started this small project that I planned from a year.

Last summer I bought a fantastic fabric with pineapples and flamingos but it stayed on my stash waiting to be transformed in something for too much. I didn’t know exactly what i wanna do with it until I found on Pinterest some vintage dresses.

My original idea was to do something like this one, but I ended with something different, as always.

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First of all I did a sketch of what I wanted to do (yes, I’m a noob in drawing) and I matched a green popeline cotton that I dyed for a cosplay commission as lining for the dress. My first idea was to add some wood buttons but at the end I didn’t like the result and I bought pink ones.

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As regards patterns, I reclycled the ones used for my Autumn ensemble, doing some alterations on the neckline and adding a proper collar.

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I cut the patterns on my main fabric and lining too. Since it’s a very simple dress I also tried to match the pattern of flamingos on each piece. I managed to do it quite well even if it took me a while!

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Once I had my pieces ready I pinned and sewed darts on the back pieces.

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I pressed them, and this is the final result.

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My popeline cotton looks awesome with this flamingos fabric!
The next step was to sew the chest darts.

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This process can be tricky for beginners, since it’s a strange curve to sew, but if you’re a beginner don’t be afraid: pin it trying to match the notches, then baste it and sew it!

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And if necessary trim a small portion of the fabric where you see some bulkiness, so the fabric stays in place and your piece will be wonderfully done in few minutes!
Here you can see where I trimmed the seamlines. I then pressed them.

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I joined the back pieces of the lining and the main fabric too, and I pressed the seamlines.

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Once done I had to finish the armholes and the collar too. Since it’s a sleeveless bodice I wanted to make it look neat on the inside too. So I pinned the armholes first

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And then I did the same with the collar.

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Once I sewed and sergered the seamlines I turned the bodice over, I pressed it and my collar was done!

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Here comes an important step: when I sewed the armholes I left few mm from the end, since I needed some room to sew the back panels to the front one, or the lining would have been caught together during the process. This step is important ‘cos, you’ll see later, the lining has to be sewed separately and by hand.
I hope you understood, in case you don’t, don’t be afraid to comment below with your questions!

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Once done I sewed the neckline too. This took me a while ‘cos it was not an easy process. Also I joined the collar pieces too on the back.

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Now I just had to handsew the lining. I pinned the green cotton which was on the side, and I closed it with a whipstich.

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And I did the same for the neckline part too! Here you can see why I had some problems sewing my neckline. It has a strange shape and it took me a while, mostly ‘cos I had to trim some parts, and baste them!

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This is how it looks on the inside once I completed it

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Since I wanted to add some color on the outside, I sewed some stitches with a pink cotton thread along the collar.

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The last step for the bodice was to add eyelets and buttons. I totally forgot to add some interfacing, and i highly suggest you to do it, ‘cos eyelets will be more stable and will resist over time.

However I did them with the same pink thread and by machine. I have done eyelets by hand just one time and I think I won’t repeat the experience ahaha.
Here you also can see how I matched the fabric!

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The last step was adding buttons and finishing the hem, which I closed with a whipstitch.

My original idea was to do a single piece dress, but at the end I totally forgot to modify patterns. I wanted my bodice to be opened but also joined to the skirt.
I ended up with separate pieces just one I realized that my shoulders would have never fit the waistline if I would add the skirt to the bodice.

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As regards the skirt I used my remain fabric which was, more or less, 3 m (2 pieces of 150cm each). I pinned my two pieces and I joined them together.

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Then I did some bias tape from the same cotton I used for my bodice lining

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And I finished my seams with them. Once done I started the hem too.

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Normally I would have sewed it with some invisible stitches but this time I wanted some colors on the hem too. So I sewed the hem with the same pink cotton thread used before. This is how my inside/outside looks!

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The next step was doing the waistband. Here I had some problems ‘cos first I wanted to do something fast, then I had to redo all ‘cos my bodice didn’t fit the volume I created.

First of all I chose an olive green taffetà (which was in my stash) and an elastic

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Then I sergered my waistband ‘cos this kind of fabric frays too much

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If you’re following this making of as a tutorial, don’t follow these steps ‘cos they’re wrong!!!

Then I sewed and closed the waistband on the skirt

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And I sewed it down with a white thread

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Well, this is what I ended up with. A horrible waistband with too much volume. I wasn’t able to close my bodice so I had to redo it…

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These steps are correct so you can follow them!

After I unstitched the whole mess I did, I started again. So, first of all I sewed an invisible zipper on one side

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Then I gathered the whole skirt, matching its measurement with my waistline

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I also redo the waistband adding a coutil ribbon in order to maintain a good shape

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And finally I added it to my skirt. I finished the inner part with some invisible stitches instead of machine stitches

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And this is the final result. Much better then the other one I think!

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I hope you appreciated this project as I did. I’ve never sewed something like this before and I’ll surely do much more!

Thanks for reading!

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The Survey Corps | Attack on Titan

–  THE GARRISON –
– THE MILITARY POLICE –


Hi all!
Finally I can show you the final felt piece I’ve done for this Attack on Titan project.

First of all let me say that this were the most complex of the others I’ve done. So much pieces to do! But with patience (which is all in what I do!) i managed to do it in a reasanble amount of time. Hot temperatures obviously don’t help ahah!

As always you can find ♥patterns & pdf tutorial here♥

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As I did for The Garrison and The Military Police I started with the base, cutting the pattern onto white & grey felt.

Collage 1
Then I sewed the white layer on the grey piece

Collage 2
And my base was completed! Then I cut my wing pattern, starting with the blue one. I cut just few pieces per time in order to distinguish them easily. I transfered each piece on the black felt, and then I repeated the process with blue felt.

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Now I just had to assemble blue pieces with shadows.
I did this process first with glue (Gutermann HT2) and sewing each piece by hand.

Collage 1
And I repeated the process for the two wings, until I had the full design ready to be applied on the base! Once my pieces were ready I just glued them and i sewed each piece on the base, catching the black felt I’ve used to make shadows.

Collage 2
If you’re wondering how I sewed each piece, I made few stitches following the black piece, which was wider than the upper one.

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I also added a small piece of satin ribbon on the back and I close the work with another piece of grey felt. I finally close the work using a blanket stitch.

I prefered a thin thread even if I know that felt requires a thicker one. But I wanted to have some invisible stitches in order to focus the attention on the design instead of decorative stitches!

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And my experience with felt is finished for now.

I hope you liked this short projects. I had to relax my mind with something easy and funny. Costumes requires lot of attention and researches, and I have no energy for that with these temperatures!

I’m also planning further felt projects and I would be glad if you wanna suggest me some logos or designs to make, maybe cosplay related!

Thanks so much for reading!

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The Military Police | Attack on Titan

– THE GARRISON – 
– THE SURVEY CORPS – 


Hi all!
As promised i post the other Attack on Titan work i’ve done. The next one will be the last, which is the survey corps. The most difficult to reproduce I think!

First of all I have to admit that working with felt is not as easy as I thought, ‘cos you have to be precise in cutting each piece in order to have perfect shades…which is not one of my favourite things to do!

Let’s start so with this short tutorial!
As always you can find ♥patterns & pdf tutorial here♥

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As I did for The Garrison (here) I first did the base with grey felt and I traced the white details on a white felt

Collage 1
and then I sewed the white layer on the base

Collage 2
So my base was ready and i started doing the horse, starting with its shadow!
I cut the pattern, traced it and I did some guidelines to have an idea of where each piece had to be positioned. Then I traced the first pattern of the horse on the green felt.

Collage 1
And once my green piece was ready I repeated the process for the white pieces!
Once I had my horse completed I sewed it in order to keep each piece in place and I glued it on the base, trying to positioning it as the original logo does.

Collage 2
Once I cut and assembled all the pieces I composed the whole design, and I sewed it down in order to keep it in place.

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As I wanted it to be hang on a wall Ialso added a small piece of satin ribbon and I close the work with another piece of grey felt, closing it with a blanket stitch.

I prefered a thin thread even if i know that felt requires a thicker one. But I wanted to have some invisible stitches in order to focus the attention on the design instead of decorative stitches!

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And it’s finished!
Now comes the worst / most beautiful of the three and i’m a little bit scared!
I hope I’ll do something decent ahah!

Thank you so much!

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