The Sun | Part II

Hi everyone!
Today I’m sharing the bodice of The Sun – Part I here

This part was a little bit challenging since I had no clear ideas on how the bodice should have been. I sketched it many times, then I decided to improvise!

As regards fabrics I used: taffetta, ivory satin cotton, white tulle.
White cotton was used as lining.
I also used some coutil in order to have a stiffed bodice.

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After I traced and cut the patterns (I did a mock up first!) I doubled the fabric
with stiffed cotton and I sergered it

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When each piece was ready, I started embellishing the front panel.
I used some white tulle and I did small pleats.
Once I pinned and basted them all around, I sergered the excess and I also sewed the tulle down in order to secure it

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At the end I also decided to add some seed beads in order to embellish it more.
I sewed them down with an invisible thread

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Front panels were ready and I had to do the same process for the back panels too.
First of all I had to add a piece of cotton satin to make the base.
Once done I sewed it with invisible stitches

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Then, I added the white tulle and I pleated it.
I also traced with the red thread where the eyelets should have been placed

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Once I embellished the back too with beads, I could proceed.
First of all I joined each piece of the bodice.
Then I sewed down the seam allowances in order to reduce bulkiness

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In order to reinforce the waistline I also added a gross grain ribbon that I sewed with whip stitches

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Since I didn’t want to wear a corset underneath,
I did a fake corset inside the bodice.
I simply added some bones on the front panel which were sewed onto a coutil tape.
I didn’t want to make channels for bones so I opted for another way,
and it worked very well.

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As regards the front bottom, I folded it twice until I was satisfied with the shape
and I sewed it several times in order to secure the fabric

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I traced and cut some white cotton to make the lining

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I joined it on the back of the bodice, and I sewed it down on the right.
I did this to reduce the bulkiness on the back seam

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Once I joined it, I folded the seam allowances and I sewed it to the main fabric with invisible stitches.
I pressed it with steam and I added some gold eyelets

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This was the finished result!

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I really hope you appreciated it!

Firma Etsy

Spring Coat | Ribbon work roses

Today I wanna share a making of that totally changed my idea about embroidery.

When I was a child I used to do a lot of cross stitching until I was tired of it.
I always love very detailed outfit and I wanted to do something embroidery related.

After some researches I discovered this “ribbon work” technique, which is a kind of embroidery where ribbons are used to make flowers, leaves or something else.

I’m just a beginner but I fell in love with it!

Atm I’m also sharing a beginner tutorial on my Etsy shop, if you’re interested in learning it!

First of all I traced the pattern I made onto my fabric.
I chose a red light wool

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Once done I started embroidering branches first.
Then I added leaves and roses.
I changed dimensions of ribbons very often, in order to have different shapes.
I changed colors too. I used: pale pink, lavander, white and pink ribbons.
Dimensions were: 0.3mm / 1 cm / 2 cm and 3 cm

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Once each panel was ready to be sewed, I pressed the embroidery a lot, in order to reduce bulkiness.
When I was ready, I started doing the lining.

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I traced and cut each piece onto the same red wool.
These pieces are: armholes, neck and part of the lining too

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As regards the lining fabric, I chose a pinkish fabric that was very cute.
I traced it and cut it.

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Before I could add the lining, I joined the armholes and I sewed them down with whip stitches. I was very careful to not catch too much fabric.

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Then I joined the lining too. As you can see I made corners with the same red wool,
since I wanted to have a neat finish on the inside and a sort of professional look.

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Here you can see my corners!
I was very proud of me since it was the first time I made a lining for a wool coat!

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Once done, I added some hooks & eyes on the front, and I did some small running stitches all around, in order to keep the lining in place.

I really hope you like this making of!

Firma Etsy.png

Jungle Lover | Carnevale Break

Hi everyone!

This time I’m sharing a project which is not “huge ballgown” related,
but I loved it so much!
Everything started once my mother needed a dress for Carnevale.
She had to attend a dancing evening where the main theme was “the jungle”!
I immediately sketched some ideas for her, we went to fabric shopping and I started doing the costume with a 8 days deadline!

I managed to do it somehow!
The main fabric is a green striped cotton fabric, which was perfect for what I was looking for.

Patterns were very simple:
I made a one shoulder dress and the lining.
I traced and cut the fabric

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Then I sewed the dart for the lining of the costume.
Just the lining had darts, since I thought that darts wouldn’t have been
realistic inside a Jungle.

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Once done, I immediately started with embellishing.

This required a lot of time since we (yes, my mum helped me!)
had to brush a lot of wool yarn…by hand obviously!

I bought three different colors: green, brown and cream.
We divided the threads of each yarn and we brushed it several times, until we had that kind of “felt wool effect” that I was looking for.

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I also added some alpaca wool yarn, which was a lot much easier to brush.

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Once I had enought wool yarn, I started to decorate the neckline.
I added severals layers of green and brown, and just few threads of cream.
I also used a lot of alpaca yarn.

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Once I pinned and basted the whole neckline, I sewed it

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And I added the lining.
The lining was divided in two parts: the front and the back.

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First I added the lining on each panel.
I leave a gap of 2 mm from each seam (neckline and the armhole).
I turned it over, I joined the back panel with the front and just then I closed the lining with invisible stitches.

As you can see under here, the lining was sewed in a second moment!

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Once done, I turned it over and I pressed the neckline and the armhole too

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Time to do some pleats!
In order to reduce the volume that the waistline has without darts, I had to do some pleats. I did them near the sides, and I didn’t mesured it.
Even if the dress had professional construction I had to give to it a random look.
And I had so much fun while I was planning these little details.

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The closure was made with a simple invisible zipper.
I used a greenish zipper, I pinned, basted and sewed it

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I left a gap of 10 cm on the bottom, since my mother had to be able to dance

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Once the construction of the dress was done, I added some more details.
I used some brown yarn to do the armhole and the bottom of the dress.
I was careful enough to did not equal blanket stitches!

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I also added some weathering to the dress.
Fist of all I ruined the fabric brushing it several times, then I added some color.
I used these two colors, which are for fabric.
Once you pressed them, they can be washed

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When the dress was done, I had to do also some accessories.
I started with the belt, which was a sort of mini corset.
I used a stiffed cotton and a back cotton which was the lining, I sewed the bone channels and I insert a 5mm plastic bones into them.

Then I added some faux leather

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This was the final result.
I also added some brown yarn too, since I didn’t want to flatten
seams with my sewing machine.
No visibile stitches inside a Jungle!

The closure is very similar to a corset one.
I simply added some brownish eyelets and that’s it!

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Then I had to do anklets.
I traced and cut two rectangles

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Then I sewed, turned over and pressed them

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And I added some eyelets again

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Over each anklet I added some wool yarn again

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And this is the final result!
I also added some hand stitching to it, in order to secure the yarn and to give some cool effect

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The last accessories were the bracers, which took me several hours to be completed!
I used the same anklets technique: I added some wool yarn onto the fabric, I sewed it with some wool yanr

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But this time I added the faux leather too.
Since I didn’t sewed it onto the fabric, I had to secure it with whiped stitches, which were done with the wool yarn again!

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I really loved the bracers!
Plus they were very confortable!

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This is the complete dress which looked stunning onto my mum!
She also won a contest with her dress and I’m very proud!

BeFunky-collage
I had so much fun during this project since I had to think about a lot of things:

The theme was something I’ve never done before, so a lot of researches were done in order to have an idea of what the dress should looked like.
I also had to think about how the dress should have moved, since my mum had to dance a lot.
And I also had to figure how to do everything into a very little time.

So yes, I’m very satisfied!

Hope you liked this making of!

At the moment I’m selling my making of with further steps and patterns on my Etsy Shop, so if you’re interested click here

Thank you very much!

Firma

Autumn Breeze Bodice Patterns

The Sun – Part I

Patterns and further information
are available on my Etsy


Hi everyone!
Finally a new post is out!
I’ve waited so much to publish this first part of my The Sun project and I’m very happy to share with you my making of!

Let’s start with fabrics!
I used a crushed honey gold taffettà.
It was 3 m height and I bought more or less 5 meters

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I first cut my skirt and 4 flounces. They were simple rectangles.
Flounces were three times longer than my skirt, which was a 2 m rectangle.

Once done, I had to refine each seam allowance.
I did my bias tape

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I pressed it and I sewed it onto the seam allowance

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I pinned the fabric and I sewed it

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And this is the final result.
A very good finish without using a lining.
This process was used for skirt and flounces seam allowances

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As regards hems, I had to figure out a fast way to do lots of them.

My idea was to use a white ivory ribbon.
I sewed it onto the hem, right face.
Then I folded it to the wrong side of the fabric

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I pressed it using steam, and I basted it

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Time to apply lace!
I had to embellish each flounce, so I used a white vintage lace I had in my stash.
Before I could apply it, I had to trim 20 meter of it, which took me a while.
Here you can see the final result of the lace.

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I first joined the end of the lace, as you can see in the right corner.
Once done, I pinned it and I hand sewed it.
I used a very thin invisible thread.

I also caught a small portion of the white ribbon underneath.
This helped me a lot ‘cos I didn’t have to do visible stitches in order to keep it in place!

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Once the lace was sewed, I applied tons of topaz rhinestones and white pearls.
I did this for 20 meter, which took me a month and a half to see the result!

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And this is the result!
In total I applied 500 rhinestones and 1500 pearls!

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Once flounces were completed, I added an invisible zip onto my skirt

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Time to do some gathering!
Before I could apply the 4 flounces, I had to gather them in order to make them fit the width of the skirt

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I sewed them onto the skirt, and I also applied a smaller ivory ribbon since I didn’t like the visible seamlines at all.

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Another step that took me a while…
As you can see the skirt was so big that I had to do the entire process with a lot of patience!

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When each flounce was applied, I joined the upper one onto the invisible zipper.
I used some invisible stitches to do that

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I did a waistband with crinoline inside.
I reinforced it a lot, ‘cos the skirt is very heavy

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Once I gathered the last flounces in order to fit my waistline, I also covered the wrong of the waistband with other taffettà.
I pinned it and I sewed it with invisible stitches

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And this is the final result

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I’m very happy with how it turned out!
Can’t wait to start the bodice too!

If you’re looking for further information and patterns, you may consider to subscribe to my Patreon page!

I really hope you liked it

Firma

Autumn Breeze – Part III

Are you looking for these sewing patterns?
Are available Here


Hi everyone!
First of all if you have missed the other Autumn Breeze posts here you can find them: Part I | Part II

Fabric I used for the bodice were stiffed cotton, red cotton and red shantung silk, the same that I used for the overskirt.
I decided to use the stiffed cotton as a interfacing between shantung and lining. I’ve done this ‘cos shantung it’s a very light fabric.

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Patterns were very simple: I altered a little bit a modern bodice pattern in order to have something historical related. I’ve done a mock up which fitted very well on me. I want you to remind that this bodice is going to be worn over the corset I’ve completed months ago!

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I cut my shantung fabric at 45°, this ‘cos I wanted to play a little bit with it’s pattern. The bodice fabric does a kind of zig zag effect and I like it so much! I divided the front panel into two pieces, and I joined it

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Once done, I also added the stiffed cotton, which wasn’t divided as well as the outer fabric (I wanted to have less volume as possible)

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Then I adedd the stiffed cotton on the other pieces and I sergered them to avoid fraying

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After I basted and sewed the panels together this was the result

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In order to have a neat inside, I notched each seam allowances, I pressed them

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and I stitched them down with catch stitches

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Then I reinforced the waistline with coutil tape.
I sewed it down with catch stitches

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Once done, I also notched and pinned the neckline and armholes

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and I sewed them down using a whipstich catching the stiffed cotton only

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Since the bodice had to be embellished, I also added two pieces of ivory tulle. I gathered it, sewed it and added to the armhole. I sewed it down with running stitches

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And at the end I also added some flowers around the neckline. Since they are very fragile I left a gap of 7 cm to the closure

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Then I added some plastic bones to the lining. I sewed them to the wrong side and, as you can see, I added them on the back and center panels

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I folded down hems and I pinned it to the bodice, and I sewed it with invisible stitches. Then I pressed it

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Final touches!
I added gold eyelets

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And a modesty panel for the back!

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My outfit was completed!
Here you can see the front (the bodice doesn’t fit well the mannequin)

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And the back

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I also wanna show you further details of the bodice!

As always I really hope you appreciated this dress.
It’s something new for me and I think I’m going to do others ballgowns!

Once I’ll be able to have a new camera I’m also going to do some shooting them!

Thanks very much

Firma

Autumn Breeze – Part II

Patterns are available Here

 


Hi everyone!
The first part of this ensemble started with the Corset
Two months have passed since then, and finally I have some materials to show to you.

Once the corset was done I moved on with the skirt, which was longer than I expected to be. It took me more or less one month, this ‘cos the embellishment was the longest part to complete.

As I was constantly inspired by the Bompianti’s paiting (you can find it on the previous post) I wanted to reproduce something similar. Obviously, as my color patelle was warm, I had to choose an ivory satin fabric and an ivory tulle, which matches well with the main fabric (a red shantung silk)

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The pattern I used was a simple rounded skirt.
I traced and cut the pattern onto half fabric. I repeat this step two times. At the end I also did some basting stitches along seamlines since I had to have guidelines on both sides.

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Before I could proceed I had to finish each seam allowance. Since I didn’t use a lining, I finished them with bias tape, which was done with the same fabric of the skirt.

I sewed it, folded it on the wrong side of the fabric

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Then I sewed it down with some invisible stitches. This is a technique I learned thanks to Couture Sewing Techniques (affiliate)

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As regards the closure, I added an invisible zipper

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Once done, I also had to add a waistband. I pinned it and sewed it down

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Then I folded it and I sewed it with invisible stitches. Obviously I had to be careful to not catch too much fabric on the right side. I also added some hooks & eyes

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As regard the hem, I sewed it by hand. It was more or less 9 meters long, and this took me a while. I should have done it with my sewing machine, but I hate too much visible stitches, moreover on hems. I folded twice the fabric and I sewed it down with invisibile stitches. Once done I also pressed it.

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My first skirt was done. I had to do the second skirt, which was made with tulle.
I sewed two layers of tulle of 3 meter each together, then I gathered them in order to shorten the length, which had to be the same of my waist

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Then I had to close the skirt. I leave a small gap of 20 cm and I closed the skirt where my red pin was. I didn’t finished the seam allowance, ‘cos tulle doesn’t fray

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Before I could proceed I also added a waistband and hooks and eyes again.
Then I started working on the upperskirt. I did a mock up with muslim, which took me several hours. I tried to follow some historical patterns but it didn’t work very well.

As you can see I also have done a previous overskirt wich was indeed too much short.

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Once my pattern was ready I traced and cut it onto crinoline fabric.
I used crinoline since shantung was too much light and my fear was that it couldn’t support a heavy embellishment as the one I did.

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I basted it onto the shantung fabric, and I did the same for the back panel.

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Before I could proceed with the embellishment I sewed the two layers of fabric together and I sergered them all around.

Once done I could start the embellishment. I used an organza ribbon for the base. I gathered it

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And I placed it onto front and back panels

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I basted and sewed it down. Then the funniest part: flowers! I used some fake flowers that a friend of mine gave me. There are three different colors as you can see. They also had a long stem, which I cut out. I also had to put some glue on them since they were extremely fragile

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Then I sewed them on the two panels. This took me a while, since I had to sew each flower three times to secure it

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Once panels were completed, I joined them. I pinned them until I could, since flowers made some volume, which was impossibile to machine sew

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Infact I had to hand sew the last part of them as you can see. I did it with backstitches

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And before I could add the lining I also folded the hem and I did some whipstitches to keep it in place. I was careful to only catch the crinoline

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I also added hooks & eyes for the closure

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As regards the lining, once I sergered it, I joined it on one side, leaving the gap for the closure on the other side

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I applied it to the hem with invisible stitches

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Since I wanted some volume on the back, I made it larger than my waist. So I had to shorten it with folds. The original idea was gathering it, but the crinoline make the fabric too much stiff

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I sewed the back and at the end I added a proper waistband. I used some interfacing on it, since shantung was too much light to maintain a good shape

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I folded it on the wrong side of the fabric, and I closed it with invisible stitches.

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And here you can see the front

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And the back

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That’s all for this post.
I really hope you enjoied it!

Firma

Lady Ween – The last Harvest | Part II

If you’re looking for patterns, please check my Patreon page to have them!


Hi guys,
this is the second part of the Lady Ween outfit I’ve done for Halloween.
I hope you read the first part, which is about the skirt.

Let’s start!
For the upper part of this outfit I was inspired by huge sleeves that were popular at the end of XIX century. I was able to find a very small pattern scheme into my Patterns of Fashion II (affiliate) which is about the so called Gigot sleeves.

It was hard to figure out how it should have worked, ‘cos it was just a drawing with no explanations at all. Plus I think it was reflected and so I was barely able to understand it. But after many tries I came up with something.
And this is the mock up

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As regard fabrics I was able to find a very good taffettà in a nearby shop. I think they sold me a silk taffettà but I’m not sure.
Then I also added a red cotton, whereas the lining was made with the same fabric as well. I didn’t use the black cotton at the end, ‘cos it darken the orange taffettà too much..

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Once my patterns were ready I traced and cut the taffettà. I also added a layer of light interfacing, since the taffettà was too thin for a jacket.

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And then I joined the panels together

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In order to flatten my seams I opened the seam allowances, I press them and I stitched them down with catchstitches.

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Time for giant sleeves!
The orange one is the Gigot sleeve. So, it’s 90cm x 60 cm. The red one is the under sleeve which is also a part of the lining

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I joined the sleeve and I did gathering stitches on the armohole.
Then I ruffled it

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Before I could add the sleeve to the bodice I also press the seams

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Once done I also basted the end in order to maintain a good shape while I was joining the two different sleeves.

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I joined the two sleeves with invisible stitches. I also left a small gap at the end, and I added a hook & eye on it

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Sleeves were not completed! I had to add some volume. I cut some strips of stiffen tulle

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And I sewed it all around the armohole. This is the final result. Well..on the mannequin they looks like rubbish, but on me they fit very well!

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Once sleeves were done I had to the front part of the bodice. So I cut a 60 cm of red cotton

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And I gathered it. I made two pieces as you can see

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I  traced on them the pattern for the missing part of the front bodice. I traced it with basting stitches

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But before I could add the red parts, I had to sew down the remaining part of the orange bodice

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Once done I simply added the red cotton under the orange bodice as you can see. I pinned it and I sewed it with invisible stitches

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Then I had to do the neck. I repeated the same process I used for the gathered front. I took a small piece of cotton, I gathered it and I applied it on the neckline lining

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Once my neck was sewed I started adding the black lace I bought.
I’m sorry I took few photos of these last steps, but I was in hurry to finish this dress in time for Halloween.

Once I applied the lace with backstitches I also added some black beads on it.

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Then I added the lining and hooks & eyes for the closure

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And finally my outfit was ready!

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That’s all for this post!
Thank you very much, hope you appreciated it!