Pink Champagne

Hi everyone!
Today I’m sharing a summer dress I planned in few days!
I went on vacations in France, so I needed something cool and easy to wear!

I had the idea of this outfit when I saw a dress in a shop near my home town.
It was cute but I knew that It wasn’t meant to be long lasting.
So I did one for myself, with alterations in order to make it more “edwardian”, let’s say!

I sketched it and I used a wonderful fabric that my fiancè’s mum gave me some years ago!

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I traced my patterns onto this fabric twice!
The chalk didn’t work, so I had to baste every single piece in order to have visible lines

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Yep….

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Then I did flounces!
I cut a circle with an inner circumference of 28 cm

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And I did a small roundish corner in order to make it more cute.
The other side was doubled with another flounce, in order to cover the back too

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Once I cut 4 flounces, I had to make hems.
First I did some stitches all around

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Then I did some other few stitches on the top on the flounce

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And then I used this little hemming foot.
The stitches I’ve done was very helpful since the ones up here let me insert the fabric on the foot, and the other ones (the one all around the flouce) helped me to make the hem faster and easier.

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The inside was very neat even if this is the trickiest foot I’ve ever used!

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Once front and back panels were ready, I doubled them with the same fabric, and I added the flounces.

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Here you can see a better photo of how I sewed flounces on the front

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As regards the skirt, I gathered two pieces of cotton and I sewed them onto the waistline.
Then, I finished the outfit with an invisible zipper!

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The outfit is very comfortable plus I really love it!
I’m selling few examples on my Etsy store too!

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I really hope you liked this post!

Firma Etsy

The Forest | Part I

I’m very excited to announce my first video that is available on my
YOUTUBE CHANNEL

So, let’s talk about my new project, which is The Forest!
The name says everything ahah.

After many researches I took the most beautiful elements of some historical period and I mixed them onto my new design!
This post will be focused on the corset.

I took a 1890 riding corset patterns and I started tracing them onto some stiffed cotton

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I doubled the panels, I sewed boning channels and I started joining them

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Once done, I flattened seam allowances with pins before, and whip stitches right after.
Once done I also ironed them a lot with steam

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This is the inner structure completed

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and this is the inside that will be covered with the outer fabric.
As always I reinforced the waistline with some coutil tape!

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For the outer fabric I chose a wonderful brownish silk.
The texture is the reason why I bought it two years ago,
and also the reason why I never used it before ahah!

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Chalk didn’t work well onto this fabric, so I had to trace patterns
with basting thread

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Then I sergered each piece in order to avoid fraying, I joined them, I flattened
seam allowances and I ironed everything

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Time to add details!
I used a brown wool yarn and I divided its threads in order to not have thick branches.
Once done I add them onto the corset pinning them randomly.
In total there are 9 branches!

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Once done I wanted to add some ivy leaves!
I made some patterns and I traced them onto an olive green taffetta
I had in my stash for soo long.

Buy my patterns here!

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Then I cut them and I burnt their ends with a candle.
This made them long lasting!

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I think I did a hundred of them, then I add some details
such as little veins with a cream fabric color.
Once they dried I ironed them (with no steam) to secure the color.

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The last step before I could joined inner structure and outer fabric,
was placing leaves onto the branches.
I placed the bigger ones on the top and the smallest ones in
the middle and on the bottom too.

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Then I added sewed the two layers together, I finished side seams,
I added some bias tape and finally I placed bronze eyelets on the back!

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This is the finished result!
Can’t wait to share the skirt too!

Thanks very much!
Firma Etsy

The Sun | Part II

Hi everyone!
Today I’m sharing the bodice of The Sun – Part I here

This part was a little bit challenging since I had no clear ideas on how the bodice should have been. I sketched it many times, then I decided to improvise!

As regards fabrics I used: taffetta, ivory satin cotton, white tulle.
White cotton was used as lining.
I also used some coutil in order to have a stiffed bodice.

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After I traced and cut the patterns (I did a mock up first!) I doubled the fabric
with stiffed cotton and I sergered it

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When each piece was ready, I started embellishing the front panel.
I used some white tulle and I did small pleats.
Once I pinned and basted them all around, I sergered the excess and I also sewed the tulle down in order to secure it

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At the end I also decided to add some seed beads in order to embellish it more.
I sewed them down with an invisible thread

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Front panels were ready and I had to do the same process for the back panels too.
First of all I had to add a piece of cotton satin to make the base.
Once done I sewed it with invisible stitches

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Then, I added the white tulle and I pleated it.
I also traced with the red thread where the eyelets should have been placed

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Once I embellished the back too with beads, I could proceed.
First of all I joined each piece of the bodice.
Then I sewed down the seam allowances in order to reduce bulkiness

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In order to reinforce the waistline I also added a gross grain ribbon that I sewed with whip stitches

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Since I didn’t want to wear a corset underneath,
I did a fake corset inside the bodice.
I simply added some bones on the front panel which were sewed onto a coutil tape.
I didn’t want to make channels for bones so I opted for another way,
and it worked very well.

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As regards the front bottom, I folded it twice until I was satisfied with the shape
and I sewed it several times in order to secure the fabric

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I traced and cut some white cotton to make the lining

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I joined it on the back of the bodice, and I sewed it down on the right.
I did this to reduce the bulkiness on the back seam

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Once I joined it, I folded the seam allowances and I sewed it to the main fabric with invisible stitches.
I pressed it with steam and I added some gold eyelets

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This was the finished result!

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I really hope you appreciated it!

Firma Etsy

Spring Coat | Ribbon work roses

Today I wanna share a making of that totally changed my idea about embroidery.

When I was a child I used to do a lot of cross stitching until I was tired of it.
I always love very detailed outfit and I wanted to do something embroidery related.

After some researches I discovered this “ribbon work” technique, which is a kind of embroidery where ribbons are used to make flowers, leaves or something else.

I’m just a beginner but I fell in love with it!

Atm I’m also sharing a beginner tutorial on my Etsy shop, if you’re interested in learning it!

First of all I traced the pattern I made onto my fabric.
I chose a red light wool

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Once done I started embroidering branches first.
Then I added leaves and roses.
I changed dimensions of ribbons very often, in order to have different shapes.
I changed colors too. I used: pale pink, lavander, white and pink ribbons.
Dimensions were: 0.3mm / 1 cm / 2 cm and 3 cm

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Once each panel was ready to be sewed, I pressed the embroidery a lot, in order to reduce bulkiness.
When I was ready, I started doing the lining.

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I traced and cut each piece onto the same red wool.
These pieces are: armholes, neck and part of the lining too

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As regards the lining fabric, I chose a pinkish fabric that was very cute.
I traced it and cut it.

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Before I could add the lining, I joined the armholes and I sewed them down with whip stitches. I was very careful to not catch too much fabric.

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Then I joined the lining too. As you can see I made corners with the same red wool,
since I wanted to have a neat finish on the inside and a sort of professional look.

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Here you can see my corners!
I was very proud of me since it was the first time I made a lining for a wool coat!

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Once done, I added some hooks & eyes on the front, and I did some small running stitches all around, in order to keep the lining in place.

I really hope you like this making of!

Firma Etsy.png

Jungle Lover | Carnevale Break

Hi everyone!

This time I’m sharing a project which is not “huge ballgown” related,
but I loved it so much!
Everything started once my mother needed a dress for Carnevale.
She had to attend a dancing evening where the main theme was “the jungle”!
I immediately sketched some ideas for her, we went to fabric shopping and I started doing the costume with a 8 days deadline!

I managed to do it somehow!
The main fabric is a green striped cotton fabric, which was perfect for what I was looking for.

Patterns were very simple:
I made a one shoulder dress and the lining.
I traced and cut the fabric

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Then I sewed the dart for the lining of the costume.
Just the lining had darts, since I thought that darts wouldn’t have been
realistic inside a Jungle.

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Once done, I immediately started with embellishing.

This required a lot of time since we (yes, my mum helped me!)
had to brush a lot of wool yarn…by hand obviously!

I bought three different colors: green, brown and cream.
We divided the threads of each yarn and we brushed it several times, until we had that kind of “felt wool effect” that I was looking for.

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I also added some alpaca wool yarn, which was a lot much easier to brush.

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Once I had enought wool yarn, I started to decorate the neckline.
I added severals layers of green and brown, and just few threads of cream.
I also used a lot of alpaca yarn.

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Once I pinned and basted the whole neckline, I sewed it

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And I added the lining.
The lining was divided in two parts: the front and the back.

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First I added the lining on each panel.
I leave a gap of 2 mm from each seam (neckline and the armhole).
I turned it over, I joined the back panel with the front and just then I closed the lining with invisible stitches.

As you can see under here, the lining was sewed in a second moment!

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Once done, I turned it over and I pressed the neckline and the armhole too

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Time to do some pleats!
In order to reduce the volume that the waistline has without darts, I had to do some pleats. I did them near the sides, and I didn’t mesured it.
Even if the dress had professional construction I had to give to it a random look.
And I had so much fun while I was planning these little details.

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The closure was made with a simple invisible zipper.
I used a greenish zipper, I pinned, basted and sewed it

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I left a gap of 10 cm on the bottom, since my mother had to be able to dance

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Once the construction of the dress was done, I added some more details.
I used some brown yarn to do the armhole and the bottom of the dress.
I was careful enough to did not equal blanket stitches!

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I also added some weathering to the dress.
Fist of all I ruined the fabric brushing it several times, then I added some color.
I used these two colors, which are for fabric.
Once you pressed them, they can be washed

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When the dress was done, I had to do also some accessories.
I started with the belt, which was a sort of mini corset.
I used a stiffed cotton and a back cotton which was the lining, I sewed the bone channels and I insert a 5mm plastic bones into them.

Then I added some faux leather

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This was the final result.
I also added some brown yarn too, since I didn’t want to flatten
seams with my sewing machine.
No visibile stitches inside a Jungle!

The closure is very similar to a corset one.
I simply added some brownish eyelets and that’s it!

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Then I had to do anklets.
I traced and cut two rectangles

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Then I sewed, turned over and pressed them

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And I added some eyelets again

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Over each anklet I added some wool yarn again

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And this is the final result!
I also added some hand stitching to it, in order to secure the yarn and to give some cool effect

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The last accessories were the bracers, which took me several hours to be completed!
I used the same anklets technique: I added some wool yarn onto the fabric, I sewed it with some wool yanr

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But this time I added the faux leather too.
Since I didn’t sewed it onto the fabric, I had to secure it with whiped stitches, which were done with the wool yarn again!

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I really loved the bracers!
Plus they were very confortable!

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This is the complete dress which looked stunning onto my mum!
She also won a contest with her dress and I’m very proud!

BeFunky-collage
I had so much fun during this project since I had to think about a lot of things:

The theme was something I’ve never done before, so a lot of researches were done in order to have an idea of what the dress should looked like.
I also had to think about how the dress should have moved, since my mum had to dance a lot.
And I also had to figure how to do everything into a very little time.

So yes, I’m very satisfied!

Hope you liked this making of!

At the moment I’m selling my making of with further steps and patterns on my Etsy Shop, so if you’re interested click here

Thank you very much!

Firma

Autumn Breeze Bodice Patterns

The Sun – Part I

Skirt Patterns are available here


Hi everyone!
Finally a new post is out!
I’ve waited so much to publish this first part of my The Sun project and I’m very happy to share with you my making of!

Let’s start with fabrics!
I used a crushed honey gold taffettà.
It was 3 m height and I bought more or less 5 meters

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I first cut my skirt and 4 flounces. They were simple rectangles.
Flounces were three times longer than my skirt, which was a 2 m rectangle.

Once done, I had to refine each seam allowance.
I did my bias tape

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I pressed it and I sewed it onto the seam allowance

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I pinned the fabric and I sewed it

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And this is the final result.
A very good finish without using a lining.
This process was used for skirt and flounces seam allowances

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As regards hems, I had to figure out a fast way to do lots of them.

My idea was to use a white ivory ribbon.
I sewed it onto the hem, right face.
Then I folded it to the wrong side of the fabric

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I pressed it using steam, and I basted it

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Time to apply lace!
I had to embellish each flounce, so I used a white vintage lace I had in my stash.
Before I could apply it, I had to trim 20 meter of it, which took me a while.
Here you can see the final result of the lace.

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I first joined the end of the lace, as you can see in the right corner.
Once done, I pinned it and I hand sewed it.
I used a very thin invisible thread.

I also caught a small portion of the white ribbon underneath.
This helped me a lot ‘cos I didn’t have to do visible stitches in order to keep it in place!

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Once the lace was sewed, I applied tons of topaz rhinestones and white pearls.
I did this for 20 meter, which took me a month and a half to see the result!

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And this is the result!
In total I applied 500 rhinestones and 1500 pearls!

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Once flounces were completed, I added an invisible zip onto my skirt

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Time to do some gathering!
Before I could apply the 4 flounces, I had to gather them in order to make them fit the width of the skirt

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I sewed them onto the skirt, and I also applied a smaller ivory ribbon since I didn’t like the visible seamlines at all.

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Another step that took me a while…
As you can see the skirt was so big that I had to do the entire process with a lot of patience!

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When each flounce was applied, I joined the upper one onto the invisible zipper.
I used some invisible stitches to do that

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I did a waistband with crinoline inside.
I reinforced it a lot, ‘cos the skirt is very heavy

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Once I gathered the last flounces in order to fit my waistline, I also covered the wrong of the waistband with other taffettà.
I pinned it and I sewed it with invisible stitches

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And this is the final result

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I’m very happy with how it turned out!
Can’t wait to start the bodice too!

If you’re looking for further information and patterns, you may consider to subscribe to my Patreon page!

I really hope you liked it

Firma

Autumn Breeze – Part III

Skirt Patterns are available here
Bodice Patterns are available here


Hi everyone!
First of all if you have missed the other Autumn Breeze posts here you can find them: Part I | Part II

Fabric I used for the bodice were stiffed cotton, red cotton and red shantung silk, the same that I used for the overskirt.
I decided to use the stiffed cotton as a interfacing between shantung and lining. I’ve done this ‘cos shantung it’s a very light fabric.

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Patterns were very simple: I altered a little bit a modern bodice pattern in order to have something historical related. I’ve done a mock up which fitted very well on me. I want you to remind that this bodice is going to be worn over the corset I’ve completed months ago!

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I cut my shantung fabric at 45°, this ‘cos I wanted to play a little bit with it’s pattern. The bodice fabric does a kind of zig zag effect and I like it so much! I divided the front panel into two pieces, and I joined it

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Once done, I also added the stiffed cotton, which wasn’t divided as well as the outer fabric (I wanted to have less volume as possible)

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Then I adedd the stiffed cotton on the other pieces and I sergered them to avoid fraying

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After I basted and sewed the panels together this was the result

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In order to have a neat inside, I notched each seam allowances, I pressed them

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and I stitched them down with catch stitches

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Then I reinforced the waistline with coutil tape.
I sewed it down with catch stitches

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Once done, I also notched and pinned the neckline and armholes

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and I sewed them down using a whipstich catching the stiffed cotton only

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Since the bodice had to be embellished, I also added two pieces of ivory tulle. I gathered it, sewed it and added to the armhole. I sewed it down with running stitches

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And at the end I also added some flowers around the neckline. Since they are very fragile I left a gap of 7 cm to the closure

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Then I added some plastic bones to the lining. I sewed them to the wrong side and, as you can see, I added them on the back and center panels

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I folded down hems and I pinned it to the bodice, and I sewed it with invisible stitches. Then I pressed it

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Final touches!
I added gold eyelets

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And a modesty panel for the back!

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My outfit was completed!
Here you can see the front (the bodice doesn’t fit well the mannequin)

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And the back

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I also wanna show you further details of the bodice!

As always I really hope you appreciated this dress.
It’s something new for me and I think I’m going to do others ballgowns!

Once I’ll be able to have a new camera I’m also going to do some shooting them!

Thanks very much

Firma